Composite fabric and method of making same



Patented Aug. 16, 1938 PATENT OFFICE COMPOSITE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Camille Dreyfus, New York, N. Y.

No Drawing.

Application September 27, 1934,

Serial No. 745,759

Claims.

This invention relates to the preparation of stiffened composite or laminated fabrics and also to wearing apparel or other technical or industrial articles formed in whole or in part of such stiffened fabrics.

An object of my invention is to prepare fabrics of any desired degree of increased stifiness in a simple and expeditious manner. A further object of my invention is to prepare wearing apparel or other technical or industrial articles consisting of or containing such stiffened fabric. Other ob- Jects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description.

I have found that stiffened fabrics may be prepared at low cost and very simply by pressing an assembly of fabrics made of or containing nonthermoplastic fibres, at least one layer of fabric, which will usually be an interposed layer, being coated or impregnated at least locally with cellulose acetate and/or other organic derivative of cellulose in powdered or finely divided form intimately mixed with an adhesive or binder that swells or is soluble in water at elevated temperatures in the presence of a suitable liquid.

In one form of this invention the assembly of fabrics with an intermediate layer containing cellulose acetate in powder or finely divided form and an adhesive, such as a carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water, employed as starting material may first be cut, sewn or otherwise shaped. After the desired articles, such as collars, cufi's or other wearing apparel or parts thereof are formed, they may be treated with a liquid that is either a. solvent for the cellulose acetate or causes the cellulose acetate to stifien at elevated temperatures, and then subjected to heat and pressure to impart the desired stiffness and/or impermeability. In this manner the sewing of stiff material is avoided.

Products of this invention have any desired degree of stiffness which is relatively permanent, so that they may be subjected to repeated laundering without substantially losing their stiifnes. In this manner the use of starch or other extraneous stiffening materials during laundering may be avoided.

This invention may be carried out in a large number of ways, particularly as to the nature of the fabric or number of fabrics employed, pro- 50 vided that a layer of fabric comprising nonthermoplastic fibres and containing cellulose acetate in powder or finely divided form and an adhesive or binder is interposed between a plurality of fabrics that consist of or contain nonthermoplastic fibres.

There should be present in the product treated at least one layer of fabric consisting of nonthermoplastic fibres coated or impregnated with finely divided cellulose acetate mixed with the adhesive or binder and at least one layer, but preferably two or more layers, of fabric which consists wholly of non-thermoplastic fibres such as cotton, linen, regenerated cellulose, wool or natural silks. Instead of employing fabrics consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic fabrics, any or all of the fabrics consisting wholly of nonthermoplastic fibres that do not contain the finely divided or powder cellulose acetate may be substituted for a mixed fabric containing yarn of cellulose acetate alternating either in the warp or in the weft or both, in any desired degree of alternation, with yarns of non-thermoplastic fibres. Instead of employing a woven fabric, a knitted or netted fabric containing the non-thermoplastic fibres may be employed.

In a method, in some cases preferred, of carrying out the invention, two or more fabrics consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic yarns, such as cotton, linen, reconstituted cellulose, wool or silk, are assembled with one or more interposed layers consisting of such non-thermoplastic yarns and containing cellulose acetate in powder or finely divided form intimately mixed with the adhesive or binder, and this assembly may be treated by this invention, whereby a composite fabric made up of a plurality of layers may be made. If a product is to be produced wherein all the layers thereof are united, it is of importance, where two or more layers of fabric consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic material are used, that at least one layer of fabric containing cellulose acetate and adhesive or binder in powder or finely divided form be interposed between such layers of fabric.

In another form, two layers of fabric consisting of non-thermoplastic fibres may be coated with the finely divided cellulose acetate and adhesive or binder and assembled with the coated sides in juxtaposition, and this assembly then subjected to the uniting process.

As instances of the manner that the various fabrics may be assembled, the following are given. In the case of collars, cufi's, etc. where an exterior of cotton or linen is desired, a layer of cotton fabric containing the adhesive or binder and cellulose acetate in powder or finely divided form, may be interposed between two. layers of fabric consisting of cotton, linen or other non-thermoplastic fibres. An assembly that is also useful for such purposes comprises three layers of fabric consisting wholly of such non-thermoplastic yarns, with a layer of fabric of non-thermoplastic fibres containing the adhesive or binder and cellulose acetate in powder form between each of such fabrics.

These arrangements are given only by way of example, it being obvious that other arrangements with a less or greater number of layers of fabric may be employed to obtain any desired efi'ects.

Often, particularly in connection with wearing apparel or parts thereof, such as collars, cuffs, shirt bosoms, hats, etc., it is advantageous to cut or sew together the assembly to the desired form before subjecting to the stifiening operation, since it is much more convenient to manipulate them before the desired stiffness is imparted thereto.

The layer of fabric, comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing cellulose acetate and adhesive or binder in powder form, that may be used in carrying out this invention may be prepared in various manners,

In one mode of operation, fabrics of any desired construction and made of yarns of cotton, reconstituted cellulose, linen, natural silk. wool or other non-thermoplastic fibres may be impregnated with or coated with an aqueous or other suspension of very finely divided cellulose acetate with or without plasticizer and the adhesive or binder. If the water or other liquid used as the suspending mixture is permitted to evaporate substantially completely, the coated or impregnated fabric may be sold or shipped as a separate article of commerce and sale.

The cellulose acetate employed for this invention may be reduced to the finely divided form in any suitable manner. Thus, it may be reduced to the size of an impalpable powder by prolonged grinding in a ball or pebble mill in the presence of water or other liquid used as a suspension medium. In another, and in some cases preferred, method the cellulose acetate and water or other suspension liquid is passed through a colloid mill provided with closely fitting rotors, one or both of which is provided with carborundum or other abrasive surfaces, to form a slurry containing the finely divided cellulose acetate. If plasticizers are added, these will be present in very intimate admixture with the finely divided cellulose acetate.

In order to promote adhesion of the finely divided cellulose acetate to the fabric, adhesives or binders which are carbohydrate derivatives that swell or dissolve in water, are incorporated with the finely divided cellulose esters in amounts of from 3 to 10% of the weight of the cellulose acetate. These adhesives or binders may have a two fold effect, that of promoting the adhesion of the powder to the non-thermoplastic fabric and that of promoting the adhesion of the treated fabric to the other fabric or fabrics with which it is laminated. A preferred adhesive or binder is methyl cellulose, that swells or dissolves in water. However. there may be employed as adhesives other water soluble ethers of cellulose, such as ethyl cellulose that at least swells in water, or other carbohydrate derivatives such as starch acetate or the varieties of organic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate, that are soluble or swell in the presence of water.

The suspension of the finely divided cellulose acetate and adhesive, with or without a plasticizer, may be applied to the fabric in any convenient manner, as by means of a padding mangle, by passing the fabric through a bath of the suspension. with or without subsequent passage between quetch rolls, by spraying or brushing the suspension of finely divided cellulose acetate and adhesive onto the fabric, or in other ways.

Preferably the water or other suspending liquid is evaporated from the fabric after application of the suspension of cellulose acetate and adhesive. and this may be done by passing the fabric through drying chambers or tenters, or around internally heated drums or cans.

In another mode of applying the cellulose acetate to the fabric, the cellulose acetate intimately mixed with the adhesive, with which a plasticiaer may or may not be in intimate admixture, may be blown or sprayed onto fabrics comprising non-thermoplastic fibres.

To obtain good adhesion, an appropriate liquid should be present during the application of heat and pressure to the assembly of fabrics of nonthermoplastic fibres and the fabric containing finely divided cellulose acetate and adhesive. Examples of such liquids are active solvents for the cellulose acetate. such as acetone, ethyl lactate, formal glycerol, etc. which may be diluted with water or other liquids to restrict their solvent power. Solutions of plasticizers in volatile liquids that may or may not be active solvents may also be used for this purpose.

A preferred liquid to be used is a volatile liquid that acts on the cellulose acetate at elevated temperatures so as to cause the same to stiffen, but which is preferably not an active solvent at ordinary temperatures. I prefer to use for this purpose ethyl alcohol (denatured or undenatured) or methyl alcohol containing water, or mixtures of these, since they are relatively inexpensive. Ethyl alcohol containing about 20% of water is particularly desirable as its vapors are not toxic or disagreeable. Less advantageously, more or less water may be added to that alcohol. Aqueous solutions 01' ethyl alcohol or of methyl alcohol of 55 to particularly of about 80%. concentration are very useful for this purpose. Another example of a suitable liquid that may be used is an aqueous solution of the monomethyl ether of ethylene glycol containing, say, about 20% of water. These liquids are not active solvents for cellulose acetate at ordinary temperatures. Water alone may be employed provided that the powdered cellulose acetate contains besides the adhesive a large amount of plasticizer, as is more fully described in my U. 8. application 743,835 filed September 13, 1934.

The so wetted assembly of fabrics is then sub jected to heat and pressure. This may be done by any suitable device, for instance by hot ironing or by passing between pressure rolls, one or both of which are heated, or between a heated roller and a heated or cold plate or surface, or between a heated pressing iron or plate and a cold board or surface. The heating device may be heated to the desired temperatures, for instance, 80 to C. or more and the pressure applied may be any desired pressures, for instance, from 10 to 600 pounds per square inch.

Ii heated devices that have desired designs, such as stripes, dots, rectangles, or other geometric, floral or other designs, embossed thereon are employed, novel effects are obtained, since only those portions that come in contact with the embossed portions of the heated device become united, while the other portions retain the properties of the original fabrics. This local application of heat and pressure may be done by manually operated means, if desired.

In order further to illustrate my invention, but without being limited thereto, the following example is given:

Example For making fabrics to be used for making any desired articles, there is employed an interposed layer of cotton fabric coated or impregnated with acetone soluble cellulose acetate, in finely divided or powdered form, that contains an adhe sive of a water soluble ether of cellulose such as methyl cellulose or one that is swelled with water.

To coat or impregnate the cotton fabrics, a suspension or paste is made of the following ingredients:

Parts Cellulose acetate 20 Methyl cellulose solution in water (about a 5% solution) 28 Dimethyl phthalate 2 Water or quantity desired 50 The cellulose acetate is ground dry in a ball mill for about 60 hours before adding the water, when the other ingredients are added and the same mixed for about 8 hours.

The resulting suspension is then applied to a cotton fabric by means of a padding mangle. after which the fabric is dried by passing around drums or cans heated internally by steam.

The assembly of two layers of cotton or linen fabric with the interposed layer of cotton fabric containing the cellulose acetate and adhesive is then wetted on both sides with an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol of 80% concentration. Thereupon the assembly is pressed with a hot iron or calender to form a stiffened material in which the fabrics are united. By controlling the degree of heat and pressure and/or selection of the type of fabrics employed and the amount of cellulose acetate present, the degree of stiffness may be controlled. Generally a semi-still fabric is formed, which retains its stiffness after repeated laundering so that the use of starch or like material is not required.

The impregnation with the above type formula is satisfactory for applying a coating to cotton fabric, whether it be cheesecloth or a shirting. The formula results in a paste that gives an ideal coating with regards to adhesion, strength and dust-free impregnation. One run on either side of the fabric on the pad mangle with the paste is generally sufllcient to give a semi-stiffness to a three ply article.

If collars or cuffs or bosoms or other articles which are to be sewn onto shirts or other articles of apparel are to be formed. it is advantageous to cut the assembly of fabrics to the desired shape or form and sew it to the shirt or other article prior to the application of the aqueous alcohol and the heat and pressure so that the assembly is stiffened and united by wetting with the aqueous alcohol and application of heat and pressure only after the shirt or other article is completed.

The fabrics and articles obtained by this invention may be made more or less stiff as desired by controlling the amount of finely divided cellulose acetate present in the assembly of fabrics being treated; the more cellulose acetate present, the stiffer the resultant products. The fabrics or other articles may be rendered softer by the incorporation of more or less plasticizers, such as diethyl phthalate, dimethyl phthalate, dibutyl tartrate, etc., in the aqueous alcohol or onto or in the layer of fabric containing the cellulose acetate in finely divided form.

While this invention has been described particularly in connection with cellulose acetate, such cellulose acetate may be replaced in whole or in part by other derivatives of cellulose such as cellulose nitrate, or cellulose formate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate, or other organic esters of cellulose, or methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose or other cellulose ethers, in which case suitable liquids having the required properties for aiding union under heat and pressure will be selected. As adhesives, those derivatives of cellulose which have been so prepared as to be dissolved or swollen with water may be employed. Although methyl cellulose is preferred, water soluble cellulose acetate, formate and the like may be employed. Other water soluble carbohydrate derivatives such as starch acetate (feculose) may be employed.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustration and many variations may be made therein, without departing from the spirit of my invention,

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by letters Patent is:

1. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuifs and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing a water insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided or powdered form and a carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water.

2. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing a water insoluble cellulose acetate in finely divided or powdered form and from 3 to 10% on the weight of the cellulose acetate of an adhesive or binder comprising a carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water.

3. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuifs and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic ilbres and containing a water insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided or powdered form and 7% on the weight of the organic derivative of cellulose of an adhesive comprising a cellulose derivative that at least swells in water.

4. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cufls and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing a water insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided form and a cellulose ether that at least swells in water as, an adhesive.

5. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing a water insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided form admixed with methyl cellulose that at least swells In water.

6. A fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, ends and other wearing apparel comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and containing a water insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided form admixed with from 3 to 10% methyl cellulose that at least swells in water.

7. Collars, cuffs and like articles comprising outer layers and an inner layer of a fabric of non-thermoplastic fibres, said fabric containing a water-insoluble organic derivative of cellulose in finely divided or powdered form and a. carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water.

8. Collars, cuffs and like articles comprising in water.

10. Collars, cuffs and like articles comprising outer layers and an inner layer of a fabric of non-thermoplastic fibres, said fabric containing a' water-insoluble cellulose acetate in finely divided form admixed with methyl cellulose.

11. A method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiffened by the application of heat and pressure comprising incorporating a finely divided or powdered water-insoluble derivative of cellulose in intimate mixture with a cellulose ether that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres.

12. A method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiifened by the application oflieat and pressure which comprises incorporating a finely divided or powdered cellulose acetate in intimate mixture with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres.

13. Method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiffened by the application of heat and pressure which comprises incorporating finely divided or powdered waterinsoluble cellulose acetate in intimate mixture with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres by impregnating said fabric with a suspension of finely divided or powdered cellulose acetate in a volatile suspension liquid having dissolved or swollen therein said methyl cellulose and then drying.

14. The method of preparing a stiffened laminated product comprising applying heat and pressure at least locally to an assembly of fabrics comprising non-thermoplastic fibres having outer layers and an intermediate layer of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and coated or impregnated with a water-insoluble derivative of cellulose in powdered or finely divided form mixed with a carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water, in the presence of a volatile liquid aiding the stiffening of the derivative of cellulose. I

15. The method of preparing a stifiened laminated product comprising applying heat and pressure at least locally to an assembly of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres having outer layers and an intermediate layer of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and coated or impregnated with water-insoluble cellulose acetate admixed with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in the presence of an aqueous alcohol.

CALHLLE DREYFUS.

CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.

Patent No. 2,126,756.

August 16, 1938.

GAI'IILLE DREYFUS It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page i first column, line 33, claim 12, after the word "powdered" insert water-insoluble;

and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 27th day of September, A. D. 1958.

(Seal) Henry Van Aredal 9 Acting Commissioner of Patents.

in water.

10. Collars, cuffs and like articles comprising outer layers and an inner layer of a fabric of non-thermoplastic fibres, said fabric containing a' water-insoluble cellulose acetate in finely divided form admixed with methyl cellulose.

11. A method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiffened by the application of heat and pressure comprising incorporating a finely divided or powdered water-insoluble derivative of cellulose in intimate mixture with a cellulose ether that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres.

12. A method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiifened by the application oflieat and pressure which comprises incorporating a finely divided or powdered cellulose acetate in intimate mixture with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres.

13. Method of preparing a fabric for use in the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other wearing apparel and which may be stiffened by the application of heat and pressure which comprises incorporating finely divided or powdered waterinsoluble cellulose acetate in intimate mixture with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in a fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres by impregnating said fabric with a suspension of finely divided or powdered cellulose acetate in a volatile suspension liquid having dissolved or swollen therein said methyl cellulose and then drying.

14. The method of preparing a stiffened laminated product comprising applying heat and pressure at least locally to an assembly of fabrics comprising non-thermoplastic fibres having outer layers and an intermediate layer of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and coated or impregnated with a water-insoluble derivative of cellulose in powdered or finely divided form mixed with a carbohydrate derivative that at least swells in water, in the presence of a volatile liquid aiding the stiffening of the derivative of cellulose. I

15. The method of preparing a stifiened laminated product comprising applying heat and pressure at least locally to an assembly of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres having outer layers and an intermediate layer of fabric comprising non-thermoplastic fibres and coated or impregnated with water-insoluble cellulose acetate admixed with methyl cellulose that at least swells in water in the presence of an aqueous alcohol.

CALHLLE DREYFUS.

CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.

Patent No. 2,126,756.

August 16, 1938.

GAI'IILLE DREYFUS It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page i first column, line 33, claim 12, after the word "powdered" insert water-insoluble;

and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 27th day of September, A. D. 1958.

(Seal) Henry Van Aredal 9 Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

